Garage Flooring & Epoxy Floor Coating FAQs

First, Armor Chip and Armor Granite are base color epoxies with colored chips while Armor II is a base color epoxy with a color topcoat. Armor II has a little thinner base coat that is not suitable for applying chips. The epoxy for Armor Chips is a thick 100% solids epoxy to provide a good base for the chips and Armor Granite's epoxy is even thicker since you are adding in 20lbs of chips as opposed to 8lbs for Armor Chip. Armor II has a much heavier duty topcoat than either the Chip or Granite kits making it suitable for forklift use and other commercial duty applications. Chip and Granite kits come with two and three layers of topcoat respectively. If you want the equivalent in durability to Armor II with Armor Chip or Armor Granite than upgrade the topcoat to the military grade version.

a. Surface prep is the MOST important step of any coating project. An improperly prepared floor will result in either a failure, or shortened performance life. Prepping can be done by either using the acid etch method, or grinding. New concrete MUST be prepped the same as old concrete.

b. Acid Etching: Etching is an excellent low cost way to prep. Etching removes any surface lime which all concrete has, and also creates millions of microscopic pores in the surface for adhesion. If you plan on acid etching you can use our Armor Etching Kit that has a full gallon of etch, acid scrub brush and neutralizing powder. This is the proper amount of etch and neutralizing powder to ensure your concrete pores are opened and the slab is brought back to the proper PH. If an epoxy kit you are considering to purchase includes etching solution always check to see the amount of etch provided. Many times due to packaging limitations only a quart is supplied. This will not do the job properly. Power washing prior to etching and neutralizing after etching will yield the best adhesion.

Normal mix is 3-4 parts water to 1 part acid, but you can use less water if your floor is sealed or particularly dirty. If your floor is older or extra dirty you should etch twice, if your floor was power troweled smooth, you should etch twice, if your floor is new(less than a year) you should etch twice. Always rinse well to neutralize any acid and allow to dry fully before coating with epoxy (for best results allow 48 hrs for drying. If neutralizing your floor, simply sprinkle powder over floor while wet and prior to rinsing. Scrub in lightly and rinse the neutralizer and Etching solution off thoroughly. Your concrete should resemble newly poured concrete and have a slight rough texture when you rub your hand across it. If etching twice make sure to neutralize after the second etch.

To Etch your floor simply wet a section of floor(do in sections from back to front)mix etching solution and sprinkle evenly over wet floor. A Garden Watering can works great for this. Scrub in vigorously with a stiff bristled shop broom. Let sit 5-10 minutes and rinse off. Try to avoid as best as possible of running rinse water over an already etched surface. You do not want to over etch. If it is unavoidable keep the already etched section wet and before rinsing the new section neutralize the acid. This will prevent over etching. If rinse water is running over finished driveways, keep surface wet and or neutralize prior to rinsing.

c. Sealed floors: Many floors have sealers added to them when poured or applied at a later date. To determine if your floor is sealed, walk around and dribble water droplets on the floor. If it beads up’ like on a hood of a waxed car, then you have a sealer, and sealed floors will resist all coatings. The sealer must be removed by acid etching (normally at higher concentrations, or multiple times), or mechanical means such as grinding or sanding. Repeat prep steps until water does not bead. Sanding a sealed floor prior to using acid etch helps to open up’ the floor to allow the acid to penetrate and etch. A strong muriatic acid solution of 2 parts water to every 1 part acid is usually need to remove sealers. Fortunately most sealers are of a retail nature and are easily removed with the above methods.

d. Mechanical methods: You can use the Floor Prep Machine available for rental from your local Home Depot. If the vac attachment is available take that too. You can also use a diamond grinder available at most tool rental places. If using a grinder rent a good quality grinder with at least dual heads equipped with 25 grit diamond blades. If a Vac System is available with the grinder we recommend using it. It will minimize the dust. Do not try a shop vac since they will simply clog up after a few minutes of use. Make sure to vacuum well after this step as sanding or grinding creates a lot of dust. If possible do a light etching to remove any leftover dust.

e. Oily/greasy floors: No standard coating can stick to an oily floor. If your floor is oil soaked and/or stained, after degreasing and etch, check with the water drop test to see if still beading or if the water displays a rainbow color. You may need to degrease and etch several times to remove oil stains, they can be very stubborn and difficult to remove. Another effective method is to clean oil stains with Tide Liquid Detergent, scrub some Tide into the stain and then scrub some dilute muriatic acid into the Tide, the stain should start bubbling out. You may have to do it more than once. Make sure that after using any cleaning agent that you rinse and clean the spots thoroughly with TSP to remove any cleaning residues. Some stains are impossible to remove, if all of the above has failed, then you need to use our Oil Primer which is a special primer designed to stick to oily floors. This is an excellent product that is patent-pending.

Priming is never a bad idea. You should prime if your floor area is very close to or slightly over the stated coverage of the Armor Chip or Armor Granite Garage Epoxy kit you intend on using. Priming will extend the coverage of the epoxy by up to 20% thus alleviating the need to purchase a half kit in some cases. A primer will add extra adhesion, increase the coverage and provide you with an overall thicker coating for more durability. Priming is also a good idea on older, poor condition floors. Use our Epoxy Flooring Primer for these applications. When doing our own floors we always prime!

If you apply the primer allow 4-6 hours for the primer to dry to the touch(no fingerprints when pressed into coating). For the epoxy allow overnight curing before applying the topcoat. Do not let more than 24 hrs pass between any two coats, otherwise you must sand with 100 grit to rough up. Allow all topcoats to cure for 8 hrs before foot traffic and placing objects on it. Allow 3-5 days before driving vehicles on it.

Yes all our epoxy systems are waterproof. If using one of our garage epoxy kits we strongly recommend you use the primer also. We recommend that you seal all cracks and seams first. We also recommend that you install either prefabbed cove base or have your contractor make you cove base out of mortar. We have Cove base mortar kits you can use to do it yourself. Or you can buy your cove base online from www.easycove.com or similar store. Cove base is a must in any commercial kitchen or if you have a finished space under your garage. When you use cove base you can run the epoxy across the floor and right up the cove base thus forming a waterproof tub!

Surface spider cracks can be filled in with the epoxy. Hair line cracks that run the depth of the slab and all larger cracks should be repaired with either our Crack and Joint Compound or our Ready Coat Crack Repair Compound. Trying to fill cracks that run the depth of the slab will consume large amounts of costly epoxy product and may end up like a bottomless pit if there is a void under the crack. The ready coat crack compound can be used after etching. Mix equal parts of A & B and putty knife into cracks and scrape smooth. Then apply coating right over it, no need to let harden. The crack & joint compound can be applied before etching, mix with up to 50lbs of playground sand(purchased locally) till you get a pasty dry type of grout. Trowel or putty knife into cracks,scrape smooth and let cure for 24 hrs prior to etching and coating over.

Cycloaliphatic epoxies are a Hybrid epoxy developed to be a lower cost substitute for Aliphatic epoxies. They do this by being a sort of all in one product that includes minimal amounts of everything and eliminates the protective topcoat. Thus they are known as a thin build epoxy usually under 10 Mils in thickness versus our epoxies which are high build epoxies such as our Ultra at 23 Mils thick. As with most all in one type of products they do many things but cannot and do not do them as well as individual specialized components. The fact is that they are completely inferior to an Aliphatic epoxy with a Urethane Fortified Topcoat. Cycloaliphatic epoxies as with ALL solids based epoxies are not UV stable. You must have a Urethane based topcoat to provide UV protection. Cycloaliphatic epoxies will ALL yellow or amber when exposed to even small amounts of sunlight, that's an epoxy chemistry fact! That's why they don't offer any guarantee against Yellowing or Fading. Cycloaliphatic epoxies aren't as hard or durable, again you need a Urethane Fortified Topcoat to provide the maximum durability, impact resistance and gloss retention. And putting a clear Cycloaliphatic epoxy over a colored Cycloaliphatic epoxy does not make it a Topcoat! It just makes you waste more time and money while offering zero benefits over just the colored epoxy. Simply put Urethane is to epoxy as what rebar is to concrete! Without it you have an exponentially weaker product. That's why they don't offer any guarantee against wear. See the Abrasion & Impact ratings in our Epoxy Comparison Chart for further indisputable proof. When our Urethane Fortified Topcoat bonds with our high grade epoxy base coat it becomes a true epoxy coating that cannot be equaled! All our epoxies use military grade resins and are engineered to stay looking new for 10-20 years. That's why we are the only epoxies guaranteed for 5 years against wear. Cycloaliphatic and water based epoxies are only guaranteed against peeling, not much good when they wear out and turn yellow a lot sooner than you ever expected.

Standard colors ship out the next day by FedEx or UPS ground. Cut off time is 1 PM Eastern time. Orders placed after this time are processed the next day and shipped the day after that.

Water based epoxy companies make misleading statements by claiming their epoxies are safer for the environment. Typical water based epoxies in addition to being inferior epoxy, they are not better for the environment! They contain 1 lb of VOCs per gallon of epoxy. Armor Ultra, Armor Chip, Armor Granite and Armor Basement Paint all contain ZERO VOCs! It's pretty clear which is better for the environment!

Hot Tire Lifting is when your hot tires come in contact with a thin epoxy coating of low quality, the heat from you tires reactivates the curing process and the epoxy begins to revert back to it's liquid state and then gets stuck to your tires. We get dozens of calls everyday from people that bought inexpensive Home Improvement Center kits or water based epoxy kits and had the coating destroyed on the first hot day. You don't want that happening to you! All our Epoxy kits are engineered and guaranteed 100% against Hot Tire Lifting.

Most of the so called epoxies out there are nothing more than Latex or Enamel floor paints with some epoxy additives. That's why 99% of them fail but yes you can coat over them if you remove the failed paint or about to fail paint. Power washing and scraping is one method. This usually does the trick since most epoxies are low quality and paper thin. Another method is to rent a floor prep machine from your local Home Improvement Center or a tool rental company for about $100.00 for the day. It won't get 100% of the epoxy off but that's OK. It will remove all the epoxy that is not properly adhered. Give any remaining paint a rough sanding and power wash, then etch the entire floor with our etching solution and rinse well with a garden hose then do a final rinse with the power washer. Any remaining paint and concrete is now ready for our bonding primer and coating with our epoxy. The Primer will act as a bonding agent between your existing coating and our epoxy coating. One final point, during this process it's essential you remove any oil stains. For this you will need a good quality degreaser. Or you can try some Liquid Tide scrubbed in with the etching solution.

Yes, our epoxies are not water based and adhere extremely well to all vertical surfaces without running or dripping. This applies whether your using just epoxy or epoxy with the colored chips. We recommend you use a good quality brush on the vertical surfaces. Brush marks will disappear as the epoxy cures. If applying chips to the curb, try spreading a bead of chips along the curb and blowing them up onto the epoxy with a leaf blower with low short bursts of air!

This is a question we get asked often and the short answer is we manufacture our epoxies with the highest quantity and the highest grade epoxy resins, polymers, hardeners and pigments available. We don't use water or cheap filler chemicals to water down our epoxies so that they sell at a lower price. Water and substitute chemicals means a lower price but also means less resins, polymers, pigments and hardeners in your epoxy which means less quality and early failure.

Our topcoats are the best in the business and are actually more expensive than the epoxy itself. Most other companies don't include the topcoat whereas the topcoat is standard with all our kits. When our epoxy and topcoat bond together they result in a coating with a cross link density that is incredibly hard yet flexible enough not to crack during normal floor expansion and contraction. So just like any other product there are the prime quality versions and the cheap imitation versions. Below are 7 detailed paragraphs you should consider before purchasing an epoxy:

1. Is the epoxy I'm considering, water based such as many of the brands available in Home Improvement Centers? Armor Garage will not sell any water based epoxies! Is the epoxy you're considering have substitute chemicals added in to water it down? This results in a sub 10 Mil thick coating with inferior performance ratings. All our epoxies are pure solids based two part epoxies with no added substitute chemicals either in heavy duty or extra heavy duty grade such as our Armor Ultra. While most water based epoxies and epoxies without topcoats are well marketed with low prices, they are all prone to a high rate of failures. In fact most of our customers are ex users of those type of epoxies.

2. What is the guarantee of the epoxy I'm considering? Our epoxies are the only ones guaranteed against wear! All our epoxies are engineered with a 20+ year life expectancy. Lifetime guarantees are just slick marketing fluff that usually exclude just about everything except peeling and have almost impossible qualifying technicalities resulting in you having no real guarantee(read the fine print). Why don't other epoxies guarantee against wear? Because most other popular epoxies are made of lesser quality and amounts of key ingredients, especially the all in one type epoxy coatings. They have just enough of everything in them to make certain marketing claims but are watered down with substitute chemicals resulting in a poor product chemistry that just can't hold up to everyday Vehicle Abrasion, these type of bargain coatings tend to dull and wear out in a lot shorter time frame then you expected. This is the one reason to buy an Armor Garage kit.

3. What are the specifications of the epoxy I'm considering? Kits with exaggerated coverages and inferior chemistry result in a paper thin covering guaranteed to fail! Armor Garage's epoxies give you the thickest final coatings with the best Specification ratings for Abrasion, Impact, Glossiness and Adhesion! These are the FOUR most important factors to consider when purchasing any epoxy paint! Anyone can say what they want about their epoxy but if you start with an epoxy that is a thinner coating with a softer final cure, lower impact ratings and lower adhesion which epoxy do you think will last longer on your floor, theirs or ours? If you take a moment to study the: EPOXY COMPARISON CHART you'll notice that most other companies don't even have specifications for their epoxies! What are you buying if you purchase one of these products other than a low price and some good marketing?? Our epoxies will not dull from tire abrasion, will not experience any hot tire lifting and will never peel, crack, fade or yellow.

4. How do you know you are applying the epoxy at the right thickness? Armor Garage kits are the only ones with a calibrated notched squeegee so that you spread the epoxy at the right thickness automatically. Assuring no thin spots that are prone to failure.

5. How many pounds of chips are you getting? Armor Chip and Armor Granite provide you with the most amount of chips by a factor of up to 6 times more.

6. Are you getting a topcoat? All Armor Garage kits are supplied with a topcoat, it's a must have and should not be an option, we cannot stress this point hard enough! This is the single biggest mistake most people make when coating their floors with epoxy, not using a Urethane fortified topcoat, it's a guarantee to premature failure no matter what anybody tells you. Please note that any and all epoxies with any amount of solids in them will Yellow without a protective Urethane Topcoat. There are no if ands or buts about that, it's indisputable epoxy chemistry and anyone telling you otherwise doesn't know what they are talking about or isn't being truthful. Also if you are applying decorative chips, know that the chips do not fully embed themselves into the epoxy and have millions of tiny raised edges. These raised edges will collect dirt and grime making it a nightmare to keep your floor clean. Not to mention that common sense tells you that exposed flakes cannot withstand the abrasion from your vehicle's hot tires!

7. What is the real price of the other epoxy I'm considering? Most other companies don't include shipping in their prices, don't include a topcoat, only include a minuscule amount of chips and provide coatings that are less than half as thick as our kits which means you need more of their product to equal ours! I could go on but I think you get the point and once again urge you to study the: EPOXY COMPARISON CHART before making any purchase so that you know exactly what you are buying before you buy it.

No experience is needed. We have sold more DIY epoxy kits than anyone by a three to one factor so we know what the novice epoxier needs and have designed our kits assuming you have never done this before. As long as you've used a roller before and can follow clear & easy instructions it is basically fool proof. The important factors in a successful epoxy job are as follows: Be sure your floor is clean of all dirt and stains then prep the floor with the etching solution provided, let the floor dry completely, mix the components of the epoxy accurately and thoroughly. If you do the above your floor will turn out perfect, it's as simple as that. Read the HOW TO PREP & PAINT YOUR FLOORpage for instructions, videos and pro tips. If you accidentally splatter one of our epoxies on something, simply wipe clean with paint thinner or Xylene(available at Home Depot/Lowes) before it cures. Do not let the epoxy harden! Once cured there is no way to remove our epoxy other than by grinding.

Yes, we suggest you purchase our new Coat-All Epoxy Kit. It's the most effective way to deal with VCT tiles containing Asbestos which is dangerous to handle and costly to dispose of. Please note that you need to secure any loose tiles, patch any missing ones and either acid etch or sand them to provide a clean rough surface for the epoxy. If sanding please wear a respirator! We always strongly recommend that if the tiles are not asbestos to remove them and then use the Coat-All Epoxy kit to coat right over the black mastic. This will eliminate any chance of seeing the tile seams and damage to the epoxy finish should the tiles underneath continue to deteriorate, shift or crack.

We now have a clear product called Ranger Ballistix in our Specialty Coating Section that can go right over any VCT tile and provide unparalleled shine and protection. Prior to this the only clear coats to use on VCT were waxes and sealers that had to be continuously stripped and reapplied. Not anymore now its one coat and done!

Yes we have several epoxy kits for going over indoor wood floors. We do not recommend epoxy on outdoor wood, it will not hold up more than 3 or 4 years. Please call us to discuss your wood floor application so that we assist you in selecting the right epoxy kit for your project.

Great questions! If you don't have to etch or grind the floor you will not be removing all the dirt and curing residues that have been grounded into your concrete. You will also not be opening up the pores of your concrete. Both of these factors will prevent the epoxy from adhering to your concrete properly and the epoxy you put on your floor will peel up in a very short time. In other words you will be wasting your time and money if you don't etch. If you are grinding your floor, great, etching is not necessary but if your are rinsing your floor to get rid of the dust you might as well etch it since it's such a quick and easy process while the floor is wet to fully open the pores of the concrete.

Regarding the topcoat we cannot stress enough how important the topcoat is. Our Urethane fortified topcoats when bonded to our epoxy base coats provide you with UV protection and increased durability far beyond any epoxy only coating. No reputable epoxy installation company would ever do a job without applying a topcoat and neither should you. Induction time is the time you need to wait between mixing the epoxy and applying it. Any epoxy requiring an induction time is an epoxy to stay away from. That is the sign of a cheap low grade product, none of our epoxies require any induction time. After mixing our epoxies you can immediately apply them to your floor.

No you don't. Most nonskids are low grade grit and not worth much. But our non skid additives are very high quality and actually reinforce the topcoat making it even more durable. Plus they will not yellow or wear out of the topcoat. We recommend the use of the nonskid also because it prevents slips on a wet floor. Remember when our epoxy fully cures it's a poreless high gloss surface which will get slippery when wet. If your floor will not be getting wet much then you can omit using the nonskid.

We manufacture our epoxy to a much higher standard than retail type epoxies. We don't use any substitute chemicals or water in our epoxies. Epoxy is no different then anything else you buy, there are many different grades of Quality for every product. There are many different ways to make the same thing cheaper. We don't cut any corners and use pure epoxy materials of the highest grade available. We specialize in long life commercial grade floors which require us to manufacture in this manner. It's why are floors look the best and stay looking the best the longest! I guarantee if you buy an epoxy kit because it's a brand name you recognize or because of the price you will be sorry in a short period of time, I see and hear it everyday! If you take a moment to compare what you get when you purchase an Armor Garage epoxy kit versus what you get from other popular brands you will quickly see we are in fact the Best Priced Epoxy Kits on the market! See the Epoxy Comparison Chart We supply you with the most materials and application tools of any kits on the market. Shipping is included with our kits while other companies charge you extra at checkout! We are also the only company that supplies calibrated notched squeegees for applying the epoxy properly and at the required thickness. It all results in a superior finished product with greater flexibility, bond strength, surface hardness and a showroom finish second to none. Another reason we're more expensive is that we include what we believe is the mandatory topcoat. Most other epoxy kits don't include the topcoat amongst several other critical items so as to be able to advertise a low price. It's a good marketing strategy but no way to get a long life epoxy floor. As with most things in life it's as simple as, you get what you pay for! This is especially true with epoxies.

Epoxy thickness is very important. It's the amount of material between your finished surface and the floor. The more material(epoxy), the more tire heat and abrasion the coating can absorb. Thin coatings will get discolored, blistered and dulled much more quickly then a thicker coating. Plus just like with any type of material subject to wear, a thicker material will last longer than a thinner material. That's another reason to buy Armor Garage's epoxy kits, we are the only company that provides you with a calibrated notched squeegee that ensures that you apply the epoxy at the proper thickness. With other kits claiming greater coverage and not using a calibrated squeegee you are just getting a paper thin coating of unknown thickness subject to bubbles, hot tire failure and other maladies. Armor Garage kits have the thickest and finest finished coating on the market!

First let me just state that there is no such thing as a lifetime epoxy. That is just marketing fluff. If you read the details of those guarantees you will see that they exclude everything except peeling, adhesion is just one part of the battle. They do not guarantee against wearing, dulling, yellowing or cracking. They also make it next to impossible to qualify for the guarantee. You must prove you prepared the floor properly, mixed it properly and applied it properly, how do you do that? So when your lifetime guaranteed floor fails in any way you will find out you have no guarantee. Our epoxies are guaranteed for 10 years against everything except wear, which we guarantee for 5 years and by the way we are the only company that offers a guarantee on wear. Wear(durability) is what you should be most concerned with and we have more floors over 15 years old than any other company.

PVC is the highest grade of material(plastic) used for interlocking floor tiles. Garage Floor Tiles are extruded to exact specifications, from 100% pure PVC. Very few manufacturers use PVC and most of those who do, use a combination of recycled and cheap filler materials, the few manufacturers who use prime PVC are much more expensive than us. The majority of tiles are made from recycled and much cheaper plastics such as Polypropylene that you mentioned above. Polypropylene and Copolymers are used to make water bottles and food containers, no comparison to PVC. Although they may look similar to our tiles they are not nearly as strong, as flexible or as durable. Compare the weight of each tile and the guarantees! Each Armor Tile is up to 5/16" thick solid virgin PVC, weighs up to 5.5 lbs each and are the only ones guaranteed for life! Ask yourself if those other tiles are so great why do they carry only a limited warranty? If you're going to spend the money don't you want a floor that will never wear out?

It is true for hollow cored peg & loop type tiles. They make a cheap hollow click clacking noise as you walk over them and when you drive your car over them they make a continuous click clack noise that sounds like a rattle, which you may have seen referred to as Tile Rattle. This is from the pegs and loops popping in and out of each other. You can purchase hollow cored peg & loop tiles with rubber plugs and grommets to deaden the sound but then you end up with inferior tiles that cost much more than our higher quality tiles.

Unlike other tiles that use Peg & loop connectors that frequently break during installation and have large amounts of play in them, we use close tolerance interlocking teeth that form a very tight seam all around the tile that will hold back water until you can mop it up. The tiles are not waterproof and should not be used to waterproof your floors. In other words the tiles are not pool liners.

The other problems with Peg & Loop tiles is that they have a tendency to shift out of place after a while and the seams tend to accumulate dirt and grime that form ugly grout lines. We know because we have tried to sell a less expensive line of tile and have tried many Peg & Loop style tiles and none have measured up to our standards.

No preparation is really needed, just sweep the floor clean and remove any lumps of concrete or other materials. The tiles are flexible enough to follow the contour of your floor. We suggest you start from the center front row and work your way back. You will have cut tiles at the back wall and the side walls. If cut tiles at side walls are very thin you can start with a full tile at one side and have one cut tile on the other side. We also recommend you cut the locking tabs off the front edge of tiles where you will install the ramp edging. Use any good floor tile adhesive to lock in the ramp edging. Use a rubber mallet to knock the tiles together.

Tile removal is as easy as installing the tiles. Just pop the tile out. You can also drill a small hole in the tile to aid in prying the tile up without damaging the adjacent tiles. If you move you can easily take your floor with you. Armor Tiles are often used as temporary flooring over fine finished flooring such as hard woods, granite and marble.

This is not an issue with Armor Tiles. Although snow melt will eventually leak through the tiles down to the slab but simply rinsing the tiles with a good amount of water will flush out any accumulated salts underneath. They are also 100% impervious to road salts, any type of vehicle fluids and just about any other chemical. They really are just about indestructible.

No, Armor Tile are flexible enough to conform to the contours of your floor without having voids underneath that are future failure points like copolymer and polypropylene tiles that are brittle and stiff.

A two car garage should be able to be installed in couple of hours. No adhesive is needed nor is any special prepping. Adhesive is used only when fork lift traffic will be on the floor making sharp turns and sudden starts and stops. We suggest you simply sweep the floor clean. The beauty of Armor Tile is that it covers all your floor's blemishes and will last a lifetime.

Yes. Email or fax us a sketch with dimensions of your floor. We'll email or fax you back a list of the products and a description of what you'll need. You can fine tune it as you desire, if necessary.

Yes. With a load capacity of 100,000 lbs per tile you can park any vehicle you want on it and put most contractor equipment on it. We don't recommend placing industrial machinery such as a 50 ton hydraulic press or 100 ton stamping machines on them, tiles should be installed around this type of machinery.

Mild soap and water is all that's needed. Armor Tile are stain resistant so they clean very easily. A sponge squeegee works great on them also.

Armor Tile are up to 5/16" thick solid PVC with interlocking tabs. Armor Mats are roll out Polyvinyl rubber sheets that are a little less than an 1/8" thick. Armor Mats are available in 7.5, 8, 9 and 10' widths in any length up to 60' long. Armor Mats are guaranteed 10 years(longest in the business) and Armor Tile carry a lifetime guarantee(longest in the business).

Not necessary but not a bad idea. A little liquid nails under the ramp edging and part of the first tile is fine.

All materials expand and contract. Armor Tile's PVC construction expand and contracts less than tiles made of copolymers and other such materials. If you install the tiles in the summer you can install them tight to the wall and they will contract about an 1/8" in the winter time. If you install in the winter time leave the 1/8" gap for expansion come summer time. If you install them in a year round conditioned area then no expansion or contraction will occur.

You can seal the joint along the walls with any type of flexible caulking or cover with standard base molding.

Any type of power saw will work fine. Circular saw, table saw, jig saw or sawzall. Armor Tiles cut quickly and smoothly with regular wood cutting blades.

Yes but we strongly suggest you order the Flat style Tiles. They offer a smooth surface for steel wheeled carts, bins, dollies and other production vehicle traffic.

Armor Roof Coatings will adhere to most any type surface such as metal, wood and wood composites, masonry, concrete, asphalt roofs, epdm, ppo, app, hypalon and built up roofs. We recommend that any wood or wood composite be sanded first to remove any Mil finish. Any large Joints should be sealed with our roof patch. For metal roofs coat all screw heads and seams with our roof mastic. We have some great pictures of how a properly prepared metal roof looks like on the Metal Roof Coating page.

Armor Roof is suitable for any type of roof, flat or pitched and can even be applied onto vertical surfaces such as parapet walls.

All surfaces must be clean of any and all rust, dirt, grime, mold, mildew and any other foreign materials. Once cleaned surface must be dry. Then repair any damaged areas with our roof patch product, you can insert roofing mesh into the patching for added strength in needed areas. Armor Roof Coatings do not require a primer coat, they are self priming and there are no chemicals to mix! It's a very easy product to apply for professional results.

It is guaranteed for 12 years and with proper maintenance routinely lasts 15-20 years! At which time you can simply recoat for 10 more years of guarantee! This is really a superb product.

Look at our specs compared to any other roof coating. Armor Roof is stronger, more flexible, has a harder finish for higher abrasion resistance, provides a higher water and vapor barrier and is Energy Star rated by the EPA. Armor Roof also has a Class A UL fire rating, while some coatings are actually flammable! Armor Roof may cost a few dollars more because it's made with the best material ingredients allowed by the EPA. There are many Elastomeric Roof Coatings but you should know the difference. Most elastomeric coatings are Water Based Plain Acrylic or Silicone. These are the cheapest versions and are usually sold through Home Improvement Centers and such. Armor Roof Coating is a Rubber Copolymer Epoxy based coating. This is the highest grade coating made and the most expensive to manufacture. We also use more of the key ingredients and not less like other manufacturers do who water down their products in order to offer a low selling price. This results in coatings prone to failure, extra long cure times, higher application temperature requirements or coatings that actually just wash away or fail in a few short years. Our roof coating will pay off in reduced energy costs and cost of ownership which is the cost of the material divided by the number of useful years the product lasts. We guarantee Armor Roof for 12 Years while the other products that may save you a few dollars have little or no guarantee and the few that have similar guarantees to ours seldom last to the end of their guarantee period! Bottom line is you don't want a guarantee replacement, you want a roof coating that will last longer than the guarantee. Armor Roof routinely lasts 15 or more Years! So don't be fooled by lower first costs from other products, in the long run they are far more expensive. CLICK HERE to see the COMPARISON CHART of competing products.

Armor Roof has a temperature range of -40 to 300 degrees. It will remain pliable at these temperatures and will not run, crack or become brittle. Armor Roof can be applied in ambient temperatures down to 40 degrees.

Cure time is 24-48 hours unlike other EPDM products that take up to 7 days to cure. Armor Roof lets you get the job done in a short window of time. Ideally ponding areas should be repaired so that they are properly pitched. If that's not possible use our Armor Roof Ponding Coating. This coating is 100% ponding water proof.

It is easily applied with a roller. No experience is needed and is designed to be applied by first time users. Coverage is 100 sq ft/gal for the standard coating and two coats are required. Do not apply thicker than 100 sq ft/gal. Coverage of 17-30 sq ft/gal for the granulated coating.

Armor Roof can also be sprayed on with the proper spray equipment. A sprayer with 3300 psi capacity, 3/8" ID hoses and up to a .031 tip with filters removed can be used for faster application over large areas. Thinning with Xylene if necessary will help spray the coating without effecting performance, use up to 8 ozs Xylene per 5 gallons of product and mix well. The granulated version should not be sprayed. It's installed with a trowel.

The Granulated coating is the same as the standard coating except that it has rubber granules embedded into it for extra wearability. Use the granulated version for roofs with heavy foot traffic, around HVAC equipment or on roof decks that will have tables, chairs and foot traffic. You can do the entire roof area first coat with the standard version and then apply a second coat of the granule version in areas with high wear concerns. Please note that this is a much thicker compound and is troweled on at about 25 sf/gallon coverage. One coat of this is sufficient.

Armor Roof is guaranteed for 12 years from any material defects when properly applied and applied to a properly prepared surface. We will replace free of charge any amount of material that has been determined to be materially defective in any way. Armor Garage is solely responsible for the replacement of product and shall not be liable for any incidental or consequential damages under any circumstances if such should occur. Armor Roof when properly applied to a properly prepared surface will yield 12-20 years of service.

Yes. White and light gray are the standard colors and 13 additional special colors, please allow 5 extra business days delivery time for special colors.

We offer discounts on jobs larger than 10,000 sq ft. Standard colors ship out in 2 business days via FedEx Ground.
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Our roller is required to properly spread the thick aggregate filled coating, a standard roller will not yield the proper results. Use 1 roller per 200 sq ft of deck surface. You can rinse the roller out with water in between coats. Two coats are required for the proper finish.

The Deck Paint is just that it's a paint that will provide a color to your wood deck. It will not fill in cracks or divots, it will not prevent splintering and will last 3-5 years depending on weather conditions and condition of your deck when applied.

The Lifetime coating is a coating which means it's a solid that we liquefy. It rehardens into a solid after application. It's a very thick coating with a fine texture finish that is barefoot friendly. It fills in all cracks and divots and eliminates future splintering. It will also hide all stains. Please see the Lifetime Coating page for more FAQs.

They used to be two separate products. We have now made the product to be used on either wood or concrete. This makes it easier for us to meet demand and less confusing to our customers.

Yes, the coating is unaffected by hot surfaces or direct sunlight during application or after application. Renew It should be applied in temperatures 50 degrees and above. Also the Dew Point temperature should be 5 degrees above the ambient temperature to avoid curing issues.

Yes it will fill in cracks up to 1/4" wide and will restore your deck to a new look. It will also cover and eliminate splintered areas. Large cracks may have to be filled by brush prior to coating depending on the depth and dryness of the wood if covering a wood deck. A paintable wood filler can also be used on very large cracks and divots. Once cracks are filled then apply two coats as normal.

Coverage is up to 100 sq ft per two gallon set for two coats. Coverage will vary according to type of wood, age of wood and condition of wood. Coverage can be considerably less for older and dry wood decks with a lot of cracks, we recommend that you order some extra product to be sure you have enough to finish your project. As an example if your deck is 400 square feet, you would need 2- 4 gallon sets and should order 1 extra 2 gallon set as a safety margin. For concrete the same applies since all concrete surfaces have different porosity with rougher finishes and older concrete getting less coverage.

Yes it is tintable. Order the tint base version and you can take it to your local paint store to have it custom tinted with universal water based tint.

Yes the Renew It Coating is extremely hard and durable so a fiberglass or plastic edged shovel can be ued. Care and common sense is needed when shoveling since even concrete can be scratched from jamming a shovel edge into it.

The main difference is that ArmorTrak is a heavier duty version of ArmorTop. ArmorTrak we have found through our field experience holds up better in salt water environments than ArmorTop. ArmorTrak is an epoxy based rubber material and is therefore more durable and has a slip resistant finish. ArmorTop has a textured finish and is also slip resistant but we would say ArmorTrak has a little more traction to it due to the embedded rubber granules.

Yes. It does not react with previous coatings. We recommend that you sand the coating to roughen the surface and also do a high pressure wash to remove and loose paint. To ensure a good bond we would also apply a coat of our bonding primer first.

ArmorTrak is an amazing coating that will endure many years of hard labor, we know of no other coating that can do what ArmorTrak does. It is a proprietary high performance epoxy that is filled with rubber granules. It is durable, it's waterproof, it's thick, it's slip resistant and is UV rated so it won't yellow.

Yes our Coat-All epoxy kit is designed to cover any type of tiles, wood, rubber, plastic or metal. There is an indoor version and an outdoor version that is available as a smooth finish or a textured finish. See the Coat-All Epoxy in the Specialty Coatings drop down menu.

Yes on both. ArmorTrak is a water proof coating that can be applied directly onto concrete or wood. When using ArmorTop on wood decks over occupied spaces we recommend that you apply two coats of the waterproof base coat then two coats of the ArmorTop. See the Roof Deck Coating page in the Specialty Coating drop down menu.

ArmorTrak coverage is 150 SF/Gal and you must do two coats. ArmorTop is 250 SF/Gal and you must do two coats.