Epoxy offers the best of all flooring options. It's very versatile and it has the most dramatic look hands down versus any other type of garage flooring. When you first see that high gloss color when done right it's just stunning. We have an epoxy coating system for just about any application as compared to say the rubber roll out mats that are limited in colors and may not be suitable for certain applications. Epoxy is cost effective when done as a DIY project, it’s very durable, easy to keep clean, brightens up the room and is easy to do. It's also waterproof, mold & mildew proof and very chemical resistant to all vehicle fluids, roads salts, harsh cleaning products and can stay looking beautiful for 20 years or more while other garage flooring will start looking their age way before that.

Yes our epoxy is not only 100% solids by weight it's also 100%b solids by volume, some companies advertise their epoxy as 100% solids when it's only by weight and not volume. That is not a true 100% solids epoxy! It's also not a Military Grade solids epoxy like ArmorGarage epoxy. Our Military Grade 100% solids epoxy means it's manufactured from the very best solids materials made. There's a huge difference between standard solids epoxy or not true 100% solids epoxy and military grade 100% solids epoxy. The best epoxy for garage floors is 100% solids military grade by weight & volume with protective topcoats that have an abrasion rating of 20mgs or less. Anything higher than 20mgs is a waste of time and money. Our Military Grade topcoat is rated at only 4mgs abrasion loss rating. With abrasion loss ratings the lower the rating the better with each mg having an exponential difference! That's why our epoxy floors last the longest and stay looking brand new the longest! See the comparison video below for proof of ArmorGarage durability.

First let us just say that 90% of the garage floor kits we sell are in one of the gray colors. The preselected epoxy and flake color combos are there for a reason, they're wife approved and they work 99.9% of the time. If you would like to tweak the flake colors go right ahead we have a custom note box for custom color selections, if you're still not sure give us a call. We'll help you pick the right color scheme.

First thing you should know is that there is no such thing as a lifetime epoxy coating of any kind. It's a pure marketing gimmick. So called lifetime guarantees don't cover the coating wearing out, yellowing or even dulling prematurely which the majority of epoxies on the market will do and there's all sorts of hoops you'll have to jump through to get any type of coverage. The best plan is to buy something that you will never have to use a guarantee for. We guarantee or floors for 5 years across the board with our standard topcoat including against wear which no other company does not even for a day and 10-year guarantee including wear when using the military grade topcoat. This is unequaled protection! As far as how long will and epoxy coating last, it varies and is sort of the same question as how long can a car last. How long a car lasts depends on how may miles per year are driven and how much maintenance was done. Epoxy longevity depends on the quality of the epoxy used, the quality of the floor prep and the amount and type of traffic. A high quality 100% military grade epoxy coating with the proper military grade topcoat can last up to 20 years or more in a normal garage application before needing a simple topcoat refresh. With ArmorGarage topcoats you don't need to start all over if and when your floor needs a refresh. Just a quick/light sanding with 120 grit of the topcoat to get it cleaned and roughed up is all you have to do prior to rolling on a new topcoat that brings the floor back to brand new. The epoxy and primer if used lasts indefinitely For further proof see the Case Studies at the bottom of the page for an idea how long an ArmorGarage floor can last. Even though the floor looks in very bad shape compared to normal ArmorGarage epoxy floors it fits in perfect with the car milage analogy. You'll see a 14 year old floor with a million miles on it with no maintenance done whatsoever still in service.

We don't recommend going past the garage door with the epoxy. It's garage floor epoxy paint and once you pass the outside edge of the door you're no longer in the garage. The epoxy will breakdown in the constant UV exposure. If you have a thin strip of concrete outside your garage door we recommend you take a small sample of the epoxy to your local paint store and have them color match it with some inexpensive outdoor concrete paint. This way when it gets beat up you can recoat with inexpensive paint rather than with expensive epoxy. You can end the epoxy at the inside edge or outside edge of the door. Use good duct tape such as Gorilla Duct Tape to form a nice line. Painter's tape is too thin for our epoxy. The Military Grade Topcoat is chemically hardened for additional strength, scratch and abrasion resistance. Think regular concrete on your slab versus underground bunker grade concrete. Both are concrete but one is ten times harder and stronger than the other.

The only disadvantage of epoxy flooring is that it is more labor intensive than installing rollout garage mats or interlocking garage tiles and there are dry times involved between the coatings so the process requires 2-3 days to complete even though the actual labor hours involved are only 6-8 to complete an average 2 1/2 car garage. You can save a considerable amount of time by grinding rather than etching. Grinding eliminates the need to wait for the floor to dry out. So you can grind and epoxy in one day and topcoat the next morning and put all your stuff back in at the end of the day. You can save even more time by using our No Prep Instant Primer that lets you primer over unprepped concrete and then you can immediately epoxy over that. This fantastic primer saves you a ton of prep time and money! We almost forgot to mention one other disadvantage we read on another popular website which we found quite funny. That epoxy floor coatings are cold on your feet! Considering the fact that unless you have in floor radiant heat any flooring material is going to be the same temperature as the temperature in the room. So if your garage or other space is not heated then yes the floor will be cold if it's 20 degrees outside no matter what type of garage flooring you have. When you read stuff like this it's best to disregard anything and anybody who says things like this.

We recommend against filling in your expansion joints or saw cuts unless your floor is 5 years or older. Otherwise you run the risk of having a crack develop right in the middle of your beautiful brand new high gloss floor from expansion, contraction and or settling. Radiant heat works great when doing epoxy flooring. Keep the floor temp in the mid 70s and the epoxy will cure perfectly. If you have radiant floor heat you can fill in the expansion joints because the floor temp will remain fairly constant year round. However we like leaving the saw cuts unfilled no matter what the age of the floor is because after you're done with the epoxy your floor sections created by the saw cuts will look like giant slabs of terrazzo/granite. Also don't be concerned about difficulty cleaning out the saw cuts, nothing will stick in there. A leaf blower or garden hose will make short work of anything that gets down in there. When applying the epoxy just make sure you don't apply too much epoxy to the joint, you just want to feather it in and out of the cut.

Grinding your floor is great if you have the right machine! The Floor Prep Machine you can rent from Home Depot works fine and if you can get the Vac attachment with it, it'll make cleanup much easier. If that's not available rent the largest diamond grinder you can get and always ask for new 25-35 grit bits, it'll make the job quicker with better results and again get a vac attachment if you can. Acid Etching is very easy and is just as good if done correctly. If your floor is new or was power troweled smooth you must etch twice! You must also neutralize the floor back to the proper PH to obtain maximum adhesion. ArmorGarage epoxy flooring kits are the only ones that come standard with neutralizing powder. See the link at bottom of this page for The How To Prep & Paint Your Floor page. It has a lot of great info and images of what your floor has to look like prior to coating it with any type of epoxy floor coating or paint if you don't want it to peel up.

Our epoxies are self priming but using a good quality primer is always a good idea. It creates a better job because it adds another layer of coating(thicker is always better) and can strengthen older floors in poor condition plus it adds impact resistance. Primers are usually a little thinner than epoxies (not 100% solids) so that they can soak into the concrete better and lock in. There's a reason why you grind or acid etch your floor, it's so that a primer or your epoxy can soak into the pores and lock in like glue. A high quality primer will have a higher adhesion rating than a pure epoxy, a poor quality primer won't. You need 400psi adhesion rating or higher for total peace of mind against Hot Tire Pickup. If you have any kind of high end sports car, heavy vehicle or forklift traffic, have lots of toys like boats, tractors or ATVs or your floor is exposed to lots of harsh weather conditions (large temperature swings) you should use a primer. If your floor is oil stained over a good portion of it you need a specialized primer such as our oil primer that will bond to the oil in your slab otherwise any epoxy coating you put on it will peel right up. As with any other part of your epoxy floor installation the quality of the primer you use makes a big difference. Using a poor quality primer is worse than not using one at all. Our primers are better than 90% of actual epoxies being offered and can never be separated from your concrete unless you drop something very heavy and pointed that actually gouges your concrete out. If you manage to gouge out a big divot of concrete from your floor you would see our epoxy primer still stuck to the bottom of the divot! Once cured our primers cannot be separated from the concrete. A primer is also great to use when you need to extend the coverage of the epoxy layer since the epoxy is now going over a sealed surface rather than porous concrete. So if your floor is close too or a little over the rated coverage of an epoxy floor kit you're purchasing don't buy more epoxy, use a primer! A good primer can extend your epoxy coverage by up to 25%. It's a win win deal, more coverage and a thicker floor finish.

We get asked that question everdy all day. See Why ArmorGarage Has The Best Garage Floor Coating. For a detailed explanation, it's a great page to read to learn about all the different epoxy floor coatings. In short we use only the highest grade 100% military grade solids components to manufacture our epoxies. Know that just because a coating says it's 100% solids doesn't mean it's a quality coating! There are many marketing pitfalls to watch out for. Some coatings state they're 100% solids but are only 96% or less solids by volume. A true 100% solids coating must be 100% solids by weight and volume! Otherwise we consider it a primer. Some 100% solids are made as cyclioaliphatic epoxies which is a hybrid type epoxy to lower the cost of materials. If you see a WB in the product part number it means it's water based and is best avoided. Other 100% solids are just made with cheap components sort of like buying bread with preservatives, ingredients you can't pronounce and not made from 100% whole wheat versus pure organic whole wheat bread. Both are whole wheat breads but one is clearly better than the other. Our topcoats are the best in the business, outperforming any polyurea or polyspartics which are more expensive and more difficult to work with. Our chemically hardened military grade topcoat is unrivaled for it's durability, see the Case Studies below for more information. Durability & Performance while looking new the longest is our mantra to the point where are primers outperform and are better than the majority of actual epoxies being sold as heavy duty. The other thing that sets us apart is our great customer service and support. When you buy from a big box store or reseller you're buying from people who have no knowledge of the product or how to apply it. All our reps are experts in the industry and we provide support 7 days a week. All epoxy coatings look great when first applied, that's one of the main features of epoxy paint. It's dramatic high gloss look is beautiful and at it's peak when first applied. Come talk to us when your epoxy coating is 10, 15, 20 years or more old and tell us it still looks good, most epoxy coatings won't get past the 3 year mark before looking shabby! See the Case Studies below, that's all you need to see and know.

The answer is yes you must always use a topcoat. It's where all the action on your floor occurs. Without a topcoat your epoxy will wear out and dull very quickly. It's important to know that an epoxy is not a topcoat, two different products. A topcoat is primarily a Urethane epoxy which is not the same as an epoxy with urethane additives like some of our competition likes to do. How do you know you have a good topcoat? Look at the abrasion loss rating> we have the best Taber Loss ratings in the industry. Our standard heavy duty garage floor topcoat has a loss rating of 20mgs. Our Industrial and Military Grade Garage Floor topcoat has a loss rating of 4 mgs. Our Commercial Epoxy has a loss rating of 8 mgs. Most companies don't even publish their loss ratings they're so high and most are 25mgs and higher which is like applying semi gloss enamel to your floor. Keep in mind that each milligram higher in loss rating yields exponentially less durability and protection. A good rule of thumb is 20mgs or lower for garage duty, 10mgs or less for commercial duty and 5 mgs or less for heavy duty/industrial use. Notice the difference between the Gray Armor Chip Floor and the Blue Arrow which was done with a competitor's lifetime guarantee polyurea epoxy to save a few dollars after the Armor Chip Epoxy floor was done. The arrow wore out after 2 years(not covered by lifetime guarantee!). The blue arrow is repainted every year or so while the Armor Chip floor looks like the day day it was applied and still looks new after 15+ years! Which epoxy is the better value, the one that needs to be constantly redone or the one that still looks new on its way to be 20 years old?

Degreasers are notorious for leaving residues that interfere with adhesion and don't do a good job removing oil stains even though they're very expensive. The best way to remove oil stains when doing an epoxy floor coatings is with Liquid Tide and Muriatic Acid. Cheap and super effective! We explain how to do on our How To Page. Some floors simply can't be cleaned no matter what you do they're so heavily stained with oil in which case you need our proprietary oil stain primer to bond with the oil in the floor. Once primed with our oil primer you can then coat over it with any of our epoxy products. We strongly recommend that you do not shot blast your floor unless you've done it before. Shot blasting can leave lawn mower lines if you don't know what your doing. If your floor needs shot blasting have a professional do it for you otherwise use the Floor Prep Machine you can rent from Home Depot. It's cheap, quick and effective in getting your floor cleaned and profiled.

Epoxy coatings can be used just about anywhere regular paint can be used even on walls. Just be sure to use the right epoxy for your application. If you're unsure about your application please contact us. We have seen and provided coatings for just about every type of floor. We do not recommend epoxy if you have a very high water table and no moisture barrier under your slab. If your slab is in very poor structural condition you might be better off with Mats or Interlocking Tiles. If you have exposed aggregate type of concrete(where you can see gravel or pebbles).They can very difficult to get any coating to stick, call us to discuss. We have done and seen just about everything there is when it comes to flooring applications so we can guide you in the right direction which may even be to another brand or even to do nothing at all. The truth is every now and then some floors are better off left as bare concrete due to their unique circumstances.

The difference between Armor Chip & Armor Granite is that Armor Granite uses a thicker epoxy to hold the additional color flakes 20lbs versus 8lbs, with the Granite Kit we supply a calibrated squeegee to ensure the extra thick epoxy is apread evenly over the entire floor and the granite kit comes with 4 layers of topcoat versus 2 layers for Armor Chip. Armor Granite is our top of the line floor coating that yields 95% flake coverage giving you a realistic granite finish with unequaled durability and gloss. Armor Chip is more of a terrazzo look with about 75% flake coverage. There's a third option for those of you who don't like the color flake look or if you do work in your garage involving small parts. You can use the Commercial Epoxy System which is a pigmented base coat and a pigmented topcoat in the same color. No flakes, just solid high gloss porcelain looking epoxy. With this floor if you drop a small screw you can find it unlike with a flake floor. We all learned the hard way about not doing small parts work on a flake floor.

You have two options to achieve your required coverage. You can purchase the Add On Half Kit or if your floor is just slightly larger than the stated coverage of the full kit you can purchase the primer. The primer will provide three benefits, it provides additional adhesion, it yields in a thicker overall coating(thicker is better!) and it extends the coverage of the epoxy by up to 25% since the epoxy is now going over a sealed surface rather than a porous one. If the budget allows for it we always recommend using the primer. For poor condition floors or even better performance use our High Solids Primer. There's a Custom Order Note Box right on the product page where you can insert which colors you would like. You can customize your order in any way without additional charge.

You can easily patch any pitted areas with either our Inastan Crack reapir compound for small areas or our Crack & Joint Compound for larger areas like the floor below. If you neglected your floor and let it get to looking like this here's what you can do. Hopefully you read this first and protect your floor or you caught it while your floor was only slightly pitted. We don't like using a self leveling slurry, they never seem to last and tend to chip and crack prematurely. We like what this customer did and when we followed up with a year later he said there were absolutely no issues. For large commercial or industrial floors with a large protion of the floor pitted we recommend having a professional concrete company do the repairs. It's not for the DIYer.

This customer used our Crack & Joint Repair Compound. Our customer was very happy with the results as you will see below. Also do not use an Underlayment slurry product as it will not hold up to vehicle traffic! So here's a picture after he patched and is grinding it down smooth. Another method that customers have used is using our High Solids Primer mixed with playground sand until it becomes like a grout and then using an 18" or larger flat squeegee you squeegee in the slurry trying to leave as little material as possible on the surface. With either method be sure to acid etch the floor thoroughly even id you have to do it 2-3 times since even grinding will not get down to the bottom of the pits.

This is the finished product using the Armor Granite Kit Pattern # 2 with added Functional Gray flakes, primer and military grade topcoat.

Apply one of our garage floor epoxy kits is very easy and straight forward. We design and package the whole kit so any body can do it and get professional looking results with no prior experience. If you don't want to do yourself you can hire any local painter or handyman to install our product. We work with customer installers all the time. You should allow 2 days if grinding your floor or 3 days if acid etching. The actual labor hours involved is only about 5-8 hours but since you need to wait for your floor to dry after acid etching and then you need to let each layer of coating to dry. So it stretches the total time out to 2-3 days. On the last day you will applying the topcoat in the morning and after about 6 hours you can put all your stuff back in, just keep vehicles off your new floor for a couple of days. Our military grade epoxy has no odor, if using our primer and or our military grade topcoat they both will have an odor that's never an issue. If you're sensitive to odors a simple paint respirator solves the problem. You can use water based primers and topcoats for no odors but then they really don't work well at all. As far cleaning and maintaining an epoxy floor it couldn't be easier. It's a main reason to do an epoxy floor, cleaning is rinsing off with a garden hose and maintenance is cleaning the floor once and a while.

Ok so this is sort of a tricky question, like asking how much does a car cost. So with some caveats we will answer the question. If you go to a Big Box store or go to a mega online retailer you can buy epoxy coatings for your garage for under $100.00. In between that and us are the various other types of epoxies you can purchase such as water based, polyurea, cycloaliphatics that were all discussed above with their various drawbacks. Then you have our military grade epoxy systems for various applications, we don't do the one epoxy fits all thing like most of our competition. On average a DIY military grade epoxy floor kit from us will cost between $1.15-2.225/sf depending on whether you use a primer, what type of topcoat you use, if you use color flakes or not and what type of epoxy system you want to install ie: industrial, commercial, residential, acid resistant and even some colors impact the cost such as white, bright red and black. Why are some colors more expensive than others? First the pigments cost a lot more, we use the highest quality pigments so that when you do a red, white or black floor you get that high gloss luster you simply can't get when using inferior pigments. You can save money but it shows in the finish. The other reason is that you really need to use a primer with these colors. These colors yield much less coverage and don't hide the concrete well so a primer is really a must with black, red or white. Another way to look at it is which epoxy floor is less expensive? The one you need to continuously grind off and redo or the one that lasts 20 years or more.