FAQ

Armor Chip and Armor Granite are decorative flake garage epoxy systems (base epoxy + flakes + clear topcoat). ArmorGarage II Commercial Epoxy is a solid-color commercial system (primer/base coat + performance topcoat) and is not designed as a flake broadcast system.

• Armor Chip: thicker high-build epoxy base formulated to support flake broadcast (typically ~6 lbs flakes).
• Armor Granite: thicker base formulated for much heavier flake loading (typically ~18 lbs flakes) and higher coverage.
• ArmorGarage II Commercial: solid-color system with a heavier-duty commercial topcoat suited for higher wear and light equipment traffic versus typical residential use.

See all the Garage Epoxy Products .

Surface prep is the #1 factor in adhesion and long-term performance. Your goal is: clean concrete, open pores, and no contaminants.

Basic prep options:

• Acid etching (cost-effective): removes surface laitance and opens pores so epoxy can mechanically lock in.
• Mechanical grinding (best for difficult floors): recommended for coated/painted floors, peeling coatings, or heavy contamination.

Key rules:

• New concrete must be prepped too (often etched twice or mechanically profiled).
• Sealers must be removed — if water beads like a waxed car, a sealer is present.
• Oil/grease must be removed — rainbow sheen or beading means contamination remains.

For full step-by-step instructions, see How To Prep & Paint Your Garage Floor the Right Way .

We get asked this question a lot. It's very easy; usually, the hardest part is getting everything out of your garage. DIYers can easily get professional-looking results simply by following our instructions. All our epoxy kits are designed for first-time users. Success is usually about:

• good floor prep,
• accurate mixing,
• working within pot life, don't mix too much material at once
• and maintaining the correct spread rate (avoiding thin spots), we make that easy and automatic with our supplied magic squeegees
• Always read the instructions fully; our epoxies are not like typical off-the-shelf type products.

For uncured splatter, clean immediately with an appropriate solvent (per your instructions). Once cured, removal typically requires mechanical abrasion.

Even if a system is self-priming as ArmorGarage epoxies are, a primer is often a smart upgrade when:

• your floor is near the kit’s max coverage, priming your floor extends the epoxy coverage because it is now going over a sealed surface,
• the slab is older or porous,
• the garage will be used as a workshop,
• you have heavier off-road type vehicles/equipment,
• or you want extra adhesion and more total build for the maximum durability possible.

Primer can improve penetration into prepared concrete and can also improve color uniformity and coverage when using light or high pigment colors such as red, white or black

This is another question we get asked a lot. Epoxy products vary widely in grade, thickness, and what’s included. Price differences often come from:

• formulation quality, is it water-based, is it only high solids, is it fake or impoted 100% solids?
• what the total system build is (how much material you actually get),
• whether a true performance urethane topcoat is included and what its abrasion resistance rating is, this is a critical factor in determining the longevity of your floor. ArmorGarage floors routinely still look new 10-15 years after application

In general, our garage epoxies are actually less expensive, even though they cost more to purchase initially when you take into consideration what you're getting and the amount of service life you get. Versus having the cheaper option you purchased fail in a year or two, and requiring a very costly diamond grind removal and a full recoat

Our advice is always that trying to save a few dollars when doing your garage floor with an epoxy coating is never a good idea. Our recommendation is that if the budget doesn't allow for it to be done correctly with the correct product, then do nothing.

It's much better to have a bare concrete floor than to have one with bare spots from peel-ups all over the place and stains everywhere. That situation offers no better protection than no coating at all. Yes, bare concrete is subject to pitting and decay, but it still will be, with a failed coating on it!

Dry/cure times vary by temperature and humidity, but typical guidance is:

• Primer: allow ~5–6 hours (dry to the touch / no fingerprint when thumb pressed into coating).
• Epoxy base coat: allow overnight before topcoat.
• Recoat window: don’t exceed ~24 hours between coats without sanding/abrading for tooth.
• Topcoat: allow ~6–8 hours before foot traffic and placing light objects.
• Vehicles: typically wait ~2–3 days before driving on the floor.
• Always do the thumbprint test to make sure your thumb does not leave a print when pressed into the coating before applying the next coating. Always follow your product-specific instructions for the best timing.

ArmorGarage epoxy systems are waterproof and non-porous once cured, but “waterproofing” a space depends on details like cracks, seams, joints, and wall transitions.

If you need water containment (for example, over a finished space), focus on:

• sealing cracks and joints,
• using ArmorGarage concrete repair materials to ensure permanent repair,
• and using our cove base kit around all walls to create a continuous seamless transition from floor to wall. This will create a waterproof tub in your garage.

Yes. Cracks and joints should be repaired so they don’t telegraph through the finish. High-gloss finishes highlight blemishes.

General guidance:

• Small and hairline cracks: fill with our Instant Crack product. It lets you apply the epoxy or primer right over it without having to wait for it to cure. Huge time saver. Use this after the floor has been prepped.
• Larger cracks/joints: Use the Crack & Joint Compound and, when needed, backer rod to avoid “bottomless” voids. Use this before prepping the floor. Can be sanded or hand-grinded to smooth if necessary.
• Repairs should be sanded/ground smooth where needed so the finish looks clean. See our complete line of Concrete repair products in the Shop By Project menu on the Concrete & Asphalt repair products page.

Polyaspartics and polyureas can be excellent in the right use cases,

• Polyaspartics and Polyureas are single-component epoxy products and are considered thin build systems. Polyaspartic has two layers of the same coating, and Polyurea has one coat.
• use when:
• you need fast return-to-service,
• you need strong UV stability outdoors,
• or the job requires rapid cure windows.
• Polyureas provide a cost-effective way to apply a clear coat over bare concrete.
• A multi-coat epoxy system with a performance topcoat is often chosen when the priority is:
• stronger concrete adhesion,
• higher total build,
• long-term wear resistance is the priority,
• and high chemical/stain resistance.

The “best” system depends on your environment, workload, and expectations.

Typical fulfillment guidance: Standard colors often ship in 1–2 business days (orders placed before your daily cutoff of 2:00 EST process faster). Large freight orders may require 2–3 business days of processing before carrier pickup. Transit time depends on the destination distance from our NJ distribution center.

Hot tire lifting is when a coating softens or releases under heat/pressure from tires (often associated with thin coatings, poor prep, or low-performing systems), causing material to transfer onto hot tires or delaminate. Once the coating is reliquified by the hot tires, it will glue itself to your tires when it cools and go along for the ride next time you pull your car out of the garage. Preventing hot tire lifting or peeling in general usually comes down to:

• proper surface prep,
• applying a multi-layer system at the correct thickness,
• and using a coating/topcoat designed for hot tire exposure and abrasion.

Sometimes, only if the existing coating is still firmly bonded in most areas.

• remove loose/failing material,
• mechanically abrade remaining coating for tooth with 80 grit sandpaper,
• remove oil contamination by scrubbing in Liquid Tide detergent with muriatic acid; multiple cleanings may be necessary for stubborn stains,
• Clean bare spots with a hand grinder and a bell-shaped grinding stone
• then use our Bonding primer over the existing coating to ensure the two dissimilar coatings adhere to each other

If the coating is failing widely, full removal via diamond grind is often the safest long-term approach.

Yes, epoxies can be applied to vertical concrete surfaces, typically with a brush. Practical limits apply — very tall applications can sag depending on thickness, temperature, and technique. Many people keep vertical runs modest and use products intended for walls if going higher.

If this is your first time working with an epoxy coating you should start with understanding what What Is Garage Floor Epoxy and then read Why ArmorGarage Epoxy Really Is The Best and learn about proper coverage, why thickness matters, what adhesion and abrasion resistance are, how to know the quality of the protective topcoat (often the deciding factor in “stays looking new” performance). Product comparisons and how to choose what's right for you.

Marketing terms like “high solids” can be confusing; these should only be used as primers and not base layer epoxy as they're sometimes marketed as, all 100% solids epoxies are not created equal. This is a crucial fact to know— always compare real specs and what’s actually included in the kit.

The "Need To Know Section" is full of educational articles about every type of epoxy coating. Well worth spending some time there before you buy or do any epoxy flooring project. Doing it once is always cheaper and easier than doing a second or third time.

The garage epoxy can be used to coat wooden stairs and trim in your garage. Epoxy can be used on certain interior wood floors with the right products and prep. Please contact us to discuss. Outdoor wood is a different situation due to movement, moisture, UV exposure and weathering — it typically requires different products.

• removes residues/contaminants,
• opens pores, for new floors or floors that have been power trowelled smooth, you must etch twice
• always neutralize after etching, it's critical to bring the concrete back to the proper PH for max adhesion, not neutralizing is the cause of many hot tire lifting and peeling issues
• and improves mechanical bonding.
• grinding is required if you have an epoxy coating or paint that has failed and is peeling up everywhere
• grinding puts what we call a profile on the concrete for the epoxy to lock onto
• you don't need to etch if you grind your floor

• improve tire abrasion resistance,
• help with scratch and stain/chemical resistance,
• and help preserve appearance over long periods of time.
• the better the topcoat, the longer your floor will look new
• Induction time depends on the chemistry; some epoxies require it, ours don’t.
• We generally recommend avoiding garage epoxy products that need an induction time.

No — it’s optional. All our epoxy kits come standard with a non-slip additive, and we recommend using it. High-gloss epoxy floors are slippery when wet, so non-skid is recommended in areas that may get wet or where slip risk matters. Using too much can change the look/feel; follow the recommended amount.

No floor coating is literally “lifetime” under all conditions; that's basically marketing hype. Long-term performance depends on prep, use conditions, and maintenance. Many “lifetime” warranties are limited to specific failure modes and include strict requirements. A more meaningful warranty is one that reflects realistic performance and clear coverage terms. The best warranty is the one you'll never have to use! Any floor can stay stuck to your floor; it's how much of it stays stuck to it and how long it stays looking new. A stained, dull, and worn-out-looking floor for life is not something to be happy about.