I believe ArmorGarage's product to be of superior quality to any product on the market, and their technical support staff — specifically Jim Olympios — was extraordinary and assisted my every concern.

• Mixing cups — 1 gallon, 1 qt, and 1 oz sizes (if mixing small quantities)

• Disposable 16 oz "Dixie" cups — plastic or paper (for small batches)

• Min 1 qt lacquer thinner — for cleanup

• Clean-up rags — generous supply

• Paint respirator

• Box of disposable rubber gloves — one pair per batch

• Two broomstick handles — threaded ends for roller and squeegee

• Extra ¼" nap rollers

• Spike soles — a must for ease of application and best flake distribution NOW INCLUDED

• Disposable 1"+ fiber paint brushes — for cut-in work

• Paint stir sticks

• Additional drill mixing rod

• 3' wide water squeegee — if applying a second base coat

• Rent from a reputable company — one that is very familiar with their equipment

• Ensure all stones are identical — in size, depth, and coarseness. Non-identical stones will cause the grinder to run off-level, creating deep grooves and extra work

• Rent a compatible vacuum attachment — the dust is significant. Without a vac you won't be able to see your progress, which causes over/under grinding

• Full face respirator is imperative — available at Home Depot for about $25

⚠️ Power Requirements: Many grinders require a 120V, 20-amp power source. A standard 15-amp circuit will either pop the breaker or cause the unit to auto shut down. Rent a small generator if you have inadequate power supply.

• Mix in small quantities until you determine how far each batch will go

• Mix thoroughly with proper ratio — improper ratio or incomplete mixing will prevent hardening

• Add sand after 2.5 min of mixing — for vertical surfaces, peanut butter consistency; for horizontal, a lighter slurry works fine

• Pour higher than the surrounding surface so you can grind back to level

• Smaller pits can be filled with a putty knife — then smooth with a 7" hand grinder after hardening

Small Batch Tip: For small quantities, I used a dedicated one-ounce cup for Part A and one for Part B, then combined in a plastic 8 oz Dixie cup at 4:1 ratio. For even smaller amounts, a 20cc syringe ensured proper ratios. Mortar goes a long way and grows as you add sand — mix small.

1. Mix etch product per instructions

2. Pour solution from a 3-gallon pail onto a wet floor and brush in thoroughly

3. Wait about 5 minutes

4. Sprinkle TSP on, brush in lightly, then rinse and/or pressure wash

5. Allow floor to adequately dry

Pro Tip: Etching isn't necessary if you grind, but if you're washing the floor to remove remaining dust, you might as well scrub in the etch while the floor is wet — it's a quick, easy process. If you need a second etch (extra dirty, new concrete, or power-troweled smooth), apply the neutralizing powder before the second etch rinse.

⚠️ Fiber-Reinforced Concrete: If you have reinforced concrete with fibers and used a grinder, the fibers will become visible and look like thousands of hairs in the dried primer. A light sanding with the 7" grinder after the primer is completely dry will knock them off quickly. A small butane or propane torch works just as well.

1. Mask off any protected areas

2. Cut in edges with a disposable fiber paint brush

3. Pour mixed epoxy along the surface

4. Spread with a 3' wide flat water squeegee, forcing into cracks and imperfections

5. Smooth out any lines with a ¼" nap roller

Mix Size: Using the 2:1 ratio, the recommended ¾ gallon mix (½ gallon : 1 qt) works well with one person, gives plenty of working time, and is an easy quantity to manage.

The best results came from throwing smaller quantities into the air with a quick flick of the wrist, giving them time to separate and create a random pattern. If you try to throw too much at once or don't get a good snap, the flecks will drop in clumps.

Easier Method: Use a plastic-handle jug with 3/8" holes drilled in the bottom. While walking in the wet epoxy with spike soles, shake the jug — the flakes will come out in a random but even pattern. Apply to each section as you go. This method is detailed on ArmorGarage's How to Prep & Paint page.

1. Apply epoxy to the vertical surface with a roller or brush, leaving an inch unpainted at the base

2. Stand several feet away and hold small quantities of flakes in your palm

3. Use a hair dryer or air source to blow the flakes out of your hand and onto the surface — or spread flakes on the floor and puff them onto the curb with a leaf blower

4. Sweep up any flakes that accumulate at the base for reuse

⚠️ Key Tips for Base Coat + Flakes:

• You don't have to spread all poured material before applying flakes — spread as you go

• Without spike soles, spread in 4' wide sections max so you stay within flake-throwing range

• Always leave about 2' clear of flakes at the edge of the wet surface — don't flake all the way to the edge, or you'll have to roll over an already-flaked surface

• With spike soles, you can spread farther before flaking — makes the whole process much easier

Coverage Note: Material coverage was not a problem — I found the product actually covered more square footage than advertised.

Critical — Do NOT Go Back Over Drying Areas:

Once the material begins to dry, do NOT try to go back over missed areas — it will clump up and require sanding and recoating. If you notice a missed spot right away, simply fill it in. Look at the floor from different angles to spot misses. Having a second person watching is very helpful.

Next-Day Fix: If you see a missed spot the next day, simply sand the spot and a bit of the surrounding topcoat lightly with 120 grit, then brush on some topcoat. It should blend in nicely. Don't use a roller for touch-ups.

Non-Slip: The surface will be incredibly bright and slippery when wet. Use the non-slip additive that is provided.

Decal Application Tips:

• Tell your decal supplier you'll be applying a urethane epoxy over it — most decals are fine, but better safe than sorry

• Decals must be applied over a very smooth surface

• Mark the decal location before applying epoxy — try to keep that area free of flecks

• Sand any flecks in the decal area smooth before applying — they will show through

• Once decal is applied and any water has dried, roll on the topcoat

While applying a personalized decal can be difficult and tedious, it creates an even more unique and impressive result.