FAQ

ArmorGarage DIY garage floor epoxy kits range from $389 to $1,359, depending on garage size and finish style. A 1-car garage costs $389 with Armor Chip or $499 with Armor Granite. A 2-car garage (400 sq ft) costs $699 with Armor Chip or $899 with Armor Granite. A 3-car garage costs $1,098 with Armor Chip or $1,359 with Armor Granite.

• 1-car garage (240–360 sq ft): $389 (Armor Chip) or $499 (Armor Granite)
• 2-car garage (400 sq ft): $699 (Armor Chip) or $899 (Armor Granite)
• 3-car garage (600–750 sq ft): $1,098 (Armor Chip) or $1,359 (Armor Granite)

All ArmorGarage kits include military grade 100% solids epoxy base coat, heavy-duty topcoat, decorative flakes, floor prep material, and all application tools. Options include primer and military-grade topcoat for applications that need or desire them. Free shipping. DIY installation saves 70–80% compared to professional installation, which typically costs $5–$9 per square foot, and you don't get as good a floor as with Armor Chip or Armor Granite.

For complete pricing including commercial, industrial, and metallic systems, see our Complete Epoxy Flooring Cost Guide.

Armor Chip and Armor Granite are decorative flake garage epoxy systems (base epoxy + flakes + clear topcoats). ArmorGarage II Commercial Epoxy is a solid-color commercial system (primer/base coat + high-performance topcoat) and is not designed as a flake broadcast system.

• Armor Chip: thicker high-build epoxy base than the commercial system formulated to support flake broadcast (typically ~6 lbs flakes). Armor Chip has two layers of heavy-duty topcoat.
• Armor Granite: even thicker base formulated for much heavier flake loading (typically ~18 lbs flakes) and higher coverage. Armor Granite has 4 layers of topcoat.
• Both garage kits have the option to upgrade to the military topcoat that requires only one coat rather than 2 or 4 layers of topcoat. To get the same durability with one of the garage kits as you would with the commercial system and have a flake finish, you would upgrade to the military topcoat and in certain applications, the primer also.
• ArmorGarage II Commercial: solid-color system with a heavier-duty commercial topcoat suited for higher wear and light equipment traffic versus typical residential use. Also typically used for garage workshops where finding dropped parts on a flake floor can be very difficult.

See all the Garage Epoxy Products.

Surface prep is the #1 factor in epoxy adhesion and long-term performance. The goal is clean concrete with open pores and no contaminants. The two main prep methods are acid etching (cost-effective for clean floors) and mechanical grinding (best for coated, painted, or heavily contaminated floors). Etching material is provided with every ArmorGarage epoxy kit.

Basic prep options:

• Acid etching (cost-effective): removes surface laitance and opens pores so epoxy can mechanically lock in.
• Mechanical grinding (best for difficult floors): recommended for coated/painted floors, peeling coatings, or heavy contamination.
• You can rent the Floor Prep Machine from Home Depot for smaller floors 1500 sf or less that are new or in good condition. For larger floors, floors with a failed coating, floors that are in poor condition and very dirty. Always rent the largest grinder you can handle. Ask for new diamond bits, always get the Vac attachment. If you don't have sufficient power or lack the ability to tie it into your electrical box rent a generator. Having the proper size grinder makes a huge difference in the time it takes to prep your floor. Tip: When you think you have all the dust cleaned up, hit the floor with a good leaf blower before you start applying your coating and you'll see how much dust was still in the floor.

Key rules:

• New concrete must be prepped too (we recommend etching twice to remove all curing residues or mechanically profiled).
• Sealers must be removed — if water beads like a waxed car, a sealer is present. The good news is that most concrete sealers are residential grade and can easily be removed with a strong acid etching. If, for some reason, a high-quality sealer was used, the Floor Prep Machine from Home Depot will easily remove any sealer and also does a good job on bare concrete floors.
• Oil/grease must be removed — rainbow sheen or beading means contamination remains. The best method for removing oil stains is to scrub with Liquid Tide and muriatic acid; you may have to do it a few times depending on how deep the stain is. Once cleaned neutralize with a sprinkle of TSP powder scrubbed and rinsed well. When clean there should be no rainbow bluish tints or beads when water is sprinkled on the spot.

For full step-by-step instructions, see How To Prep & Paint Your Garage Floor the Right Way.

No — ArmorGarage epoxy kits are specifically designed for first-time DIYers with no prior experience. The hardest part is usually clearing the garage of stored items. Success comes down to four things: good floor prep, accurate mixing, working within pot life (don't mix too much at once), and maintaining the correct spread rate (avoiding thin spots). We provide yo with a Magic Squeegee or a calibrated squeegee depending on the product to ensure you apply the epoxy at the correct thickness.

• Application is easy and straightforward. Total manhours for a 2 1/2 car garage is about 6-8 hours. However there are dry times between etching to let the floor dry and cure time between coats. You should allow 3 days for your project. If using a diamond grinder you can save at least a day by not having to wait for your floor to dry after acid etching. If using the commercial epoxy system we have a fast dry primer option that lets you prime and topcoat in the same day.
• Accurate mixing means following the ratio exactly — use calibrated containers to ensure accurate mixes.
• Working within pot life means mixing only what you can apply in 30–40 minutes.
• Spread rate is made automatic by our supplied magic squeegees.
• Always read the instructions fully — our epoxies are not like typical off-the-shelf products.
• We're available 7 days/week to help guide you should you need any help.

For uncured splatter, clean immediately with an appropriate solvent (per your instructions). Once cured, removal typically requires mechanical abrasion, again this is not like store bought epoxy.

Not always — ArmorGarage epoxies are self-priming. However, a primer is a smart upgrade in several specific situations: when your floor is near the kit's max coverage, when the slab is older or porous, when the garage will be used as a workshop, when you have heavier off-road vehicles or equipment, or when you want extra adhesion and maximum total build.

• Near max coverage: priming extends epoxy coverage because it goes over a sealed surface.
• Older or porous slab: primer fills micro-pores for better base coat performance.
• Workshop use: extra build handles tool drops and heavy rolling equipment.
• Heavy off-road vehicles: total build matters more than typical garage use.
• Maximum durability: more layers = longer service life.

Primer can also improve color uniformity and coverage when using light or high-pigment colors such as red, white, or black.

Epoxy products vary widely in grade, thickness, and what's included. ArmorGarage kits cost more upfront but are actually less expensive over time because they last 10–15+ years versus 1–2 years for big-box kits. Price differences come from formulation quality, total system build (how much material you actually get), and whether a true performance urethane topcoat is included.

• Formulation quality: Is it water-based, only high solids, or fake/imported "100% solids"? These products failed all the time and much faster than you can imagine.
• Total system build: How much actual coating material you get, measured in mils of cured thickness.
• Performance topcoat included: The abrasion resistance rating of the topcoat is the critical factor in determining floor longevity. ArmorGarage floors routinely still look new 10–15 years after application becuase of the quality of our topcoats.

Trying to save a few dollars on your garage floor epoxy is never a good idea. Our recommendation: if the budget doesn't allow for the right product, do nothing. It's much better to have bare concrete than a floor with bare spots from peel-ups and stains everywhere — that situation offers no better protection than no coating at all.

For a complete cost breakdown by garage size, system type, and DIY vs professional comparison, see our 2026 Epoxy Flooring Cost Guide.

Epoxy dry times depend on temperature and humidity, but typical guidance is: primer dries to the touch in 5–6 hours, the epoxy base coat needs to cure overnight before the topcoat, and the topcoat needs 6–8 hours before foot traffic. Vehicles should wait 2–3 days before driving on the cured floor.

• Primer: ~5–6 hours (dry to the touch — no fingerprint when thumb pressed into coating).
• Epoxy base coat: overnight before topcoat.
• Recoat window: don't exceed ~24 hours between coats without sanding/abrading for tooth.
• Topcoat: ~6–8 hours before foot traffic and placing light objects.
• Vehicles: typically wait 2–3 days before driving on the floor.

Always do the thumbprint test before applying the next coating — press your thumb into the surface and confirm no print is left. Always follow your product-specific instructions for the best timing.

Yes — ArmorGarage epoxy systems are waterproof and non-porous once cured. However, "waterproofing" a space depends on details like cracks, seams, joints, and wall transitions. The coating itself blocks water, but water can find its way around an epoxy floor through unsealed cracks or joints.

If you need true water containment (for example, over a finished living space below), focus on:

• Sealing all cracks and control joints with one of our concrete repair compounds.
• Using ArmorGarage instant concrete repair allows you to repair cracks and divots and to coat over immediately without having to wait for it to cure like traditional crack repair products. Plus ArmorGarage repair compounds are permanent, they go in and never come out. Using residential grade repair compounds can lead to the patched area chipping or cracking out in the future.
• Using our cove base kit around all walls to create a continuous seamless transition from floor to wall — this creates a waterproof tub effect in your garage.

Yes — cracks and joints should be repaired before epoxy application so they don't telegraph through the finish. High-gloss finishes highlight every blemish, so any unrepaired imperfection becomes visually obvious. Use our Instant Crack product for hairline cracks (no cure wait needed) and Crack & Joint Compound for larger cracks (apply before prepping the floor).

• Small and hairline cracks: fill with our Instant Crack product. It lets you apply the epoxy or primer right over it without waiting for cure — huge time saver. Use this after the floor has been prepped.
• Larger cracks/joints: Use the Crack & Joint Compound and, when needed, backer rod to avoid bottomless voids. Apply before prepping the floor. Can be sanded or hand-ground to smooth if necessary.
• Finish smoothing: Repairs should be sanded or ground smooth where and if needed so the final coating looks clean.

See our complete line of Concrete & Asphalt Repair Products in the Shop By Project menu.

The "best" system depends on your environment, workload, and expectations. Polyaspartics and polyureas are single-component thin-build systems with fast cure times — ideal for fast return-to-service or strong UV stability outdoors. Multi-coat epoxy systems with a performance topcoat are chosen when stronger concrete adhesion, higher total build, and long-term wear and chemical resistance are the priority.

• Polyaspartic and polyurea are single-component thin-build coatings. Polyaspartic typically uses two layers of the same coating; polyurea uses two coats also.
• Use polyaspartic/polyurea when: you need fast return-to-service, strong UV stability outdoors, or rapid cure windows.
• Polyureas provide a cost-effective way to apply a clear coat over bare concrete.

Standard colors typically ship in 1–2 business days depending on order backlog. Orders placed before our daily cutoff of 2:00 PM EST process faster. Large freight orders may require 2–3 business days of processing before carrier pickup. Transit time depends on the destination distance from our New Jersey distribution center.

Hot tire lifting (or "hot tire pickup") is when a coating reliquifies under heat and pressure from hot tires. Once the coating is reliquified by hot tires, it glues itself to your tires when it cools back down, it then goes along for the ride next time you pull your car out of the garage.

Preventing hot tire lifting (and peeling in general) comes down to three things:

• Proper surface prep.
• Applying a multi-layer system at the correct thickness.
• Using a coating and topcoat specifically designed for hot tire exposure and abrasion. All ArmorGarage epoxy sytems are hot tire proof.

Sometimes — but only if the existing coating is still firmly bonded in most areas. If the coating is failing widely (usually the case, unfortunately), full removal via diamond grind is the safest long-term approach. The typical recoat process involves removing loose material, mechanically abrading remaining coating for tooth, cleaning oil contamination, and using our Bonding Primer to ensure adhesion between the two dissimilar coatings.

Typical approach:

• Remove all loose and failing material by sanding, scraping or use of the Floor Prep Machine from Home Depot.
• Mechanically abrade remaining coating for tooth using 80-grit sandpaper. This is already doen if using the Floor Prep Machine
• Remove oil contamination by scrubbing in Liquid Tide detergent with muriatic acid — multiple cleanings may be necessary for stubborn stains.
• Clean bare spots with a hand grinder and a bell-shaped grinding stone.
• Apply our Bonding Primer over the existing coating to ensure the two dissimilar coatings adhere to each other. Allow to dry overnight and then apply the ArmorGarage epoxy system of your choice.

Yes — epoxies can be applied to vertical concrete surfaces to a certain point, typically with a brush. Practical limits apply — very tall applications can sag depending on thickness, temperature, and technique. Most people keep vertical runs modest (curbs, low walls, step risers) and use products specifically designed for walls if going higher such as our Industrial Epoxy Wall Paint.

The difference comes down to material quality, color coverage, thickness, adhesion, abrasion resistance, and most importantly the protective topcoat — which is often the deciding factor in whether a floor "stays looking new" for 10+ years or fails within 1–2 years. Marketing terms like "high solids" can be misleading; not all 100% solids epoxies are created equal, and high-solids products should typically only be used as primers, not base layer epoxies.

Before buying any epoxy product, learn the fundamentals:

• What Is Garage Floor Epoxy — basics, chemistry, and product types.
• Why ArmorGarage Epoxy Really Is The Best — coverage, thickness, adhesion, and abrasion resistance explained.

The "Buyer's Guide" section is full of educational articles about every type of epoxy coating. Well worth spending some time there before you buy or do any epoxy flooring project. Doing it once is always cheaper and easier than doing it a second or third time.

Garage epoxy can be used to coat wooden stairs and trim in your garage. Epoxy can also be used on certain interior wood floors with the right products and prep — Please contact us to discuss your specific application. Outdoor wood is a different situation due to movement, moisture, UV exposure, and weathering, and typically requires different products designed for those conditions.

Etching (or grinding) removes residues and contaminants, opens the concrete pores, and improves mechanical bonding for the epoxy. A topcoat is much harder than epoxy and improves tire abrasion resistance, scratch and stain protection, and chemical resistance, while preserving the appearance of your floor over time. The better the topcoat, the longer your floor will look new.

Etching or grinding does this:

• Removes residues and contaminants from the slab surface.
• Opens concrete pores. For new floors or floors that have been power-trowelled smooth, you must etch twice.
• Always neutralize after etching — this is critical to bring the concrete back to the proper pH for max adhesion. Failing to neutralize is the cause of many hot tire lifting and peeling issues.
• Improves the mechanical bonding of the coating to the slab.
• Grinding is required if you have an existing epoxy coating or paint that has failed and is peeling up everywhere or your floor is in poor condition and or very dirty.
• Grinding puts a profile on the concrete for the epoxy to lock onto.
• You don't need to etch if you grind your floor.

Topcoats do this:

• Improve tire abrasion resistance.
• Help with scratch, stain, and chemical resistance.
• Preserve appearance over long periods of time.
• The better the topcoat, the longer your floor will look new.

Induction time: Some epoxies require an induction time (a wait period after mixing before application). ArmorGarage epoxies do not. We generally recommend avoiding garage epoxy products that require an induction time — it adds complexity and reduces working time. Any coating that has a pot life over 45 minutes should also be avoided.

No — the non-slip additive is optional, but we recommend using it. All our epoxy kits come standard with non-slip included. High-gloss epoxy floors are slippery when wet, so non-slip is recommended in areas that may get wet or where slip risk matters. Using too much can change the look and feel of the finish, so follow the recommended amount for your kit size.

No floor coating is literally "lifetime" under all conditions — that's mostly marketing hype. Long-term performance always depends on product quality, prep, use conditions, and maintenance. Many "lifetime" warranties are limited to specific failure modes and include strict conditions that few real-world floors meet. A more meaningful warranty is one that reflects realistic performance and clear coverage terms.

The best warranty is the one you'll never have to use which is what an ArmorGarage epoxy floor provides. Any floor coating can stay stuck to your floor — The real questions are how much of it stays stuck and how long it stays looking new. A stained, dull, and worn-out-looking floor for life is not something to be happy about.

No. There's a huge difference in just a small amount of lower solids content. Our high solids epoxy is 97% solids, and when put side by side with our 100% military grade solids epoxy, it's like comparing honey to milk. This is why we strongly emphasize that high solids should be used only as a primer. They make for great primers on poor conditioned floors or on floors that see very high traffic or very heavy type traffic.

Don't take a chance of having to redo your floor because you saved a few dollars buying a high solids epoxy rather than a true high quality 100% solids epoxy. If saving a few dollars is one of your main criteria when doing your epoxy floor project you're making a big mistake that will be very costly in the long run.